African Cichlids: The Rock Dwellers of the Rift Lakes
, by Majella Gee, 29 min reading time
If American cichlids are bold and brash, their African cousins are pure organised chaos — territorial, brilliantly coloured, and completely unapologetic.
They don’t just live in tanks; they take over, rearrange, and run them like underwater empires.
African cichlids are living proof that you don’t need saltwater fish to have a tank bursting with colour — you just need a bit of patience, a lot of rocks, and the ability to accept that they’ll do things their way.
Let’s explore what makes these fish so fascinating — from the lakes they call home to the quirks that make keeping them both challenging and wildly rewarding.
Meet the Africans
African cichlids hail primarily from three Great Rift Valley lakes: Malawi, Tanganyika, and Victoria. Each lake has its own ecosystem, producing species with unique temperaments, colours, and needs.
Common Species Groups
- Mbuna (Lake Malawi) – small, vibrant rock dwellers; feisty and territorial. Lifespan: 7–10 years.
- Peacocks (Aulonocara) – graceful, colourful mid-level swimmers; calmer than Mbuna. Lifespan: 6–10 years.
- Haplochromis (Haps) – open-water predators; larger and fast-growing. Lifespan: up to 10 years.
- Frontosa (Lake Tanganyika) – gentle giants with a regal look. Lifespan: 15+ years with care.
- Shell Dwellers (Tanganyika) – tiny fish that live and breed inside shells. Lifespan: 5–8 years.
- Lake Victoria Cichlids – lesser-known but striking species; often endangered in the wild. Lifespan: 6–10 years.
- Kribensis (Pelvicachromis pulcher) – a West African river cichlid, not from the Rift Lakes but too good to leave out. Small, peaceful, and full of colour. Lifespan: 5–8 years.*
Kribensis (or “Kribs”) are a beginner’s dream. They’re hardy, easy to breed, and can coexist with most community fish — something rare in cichlid land. Their shimmering purples, reds, and golds make them as pretty as any peacock, minus the chaos.
Every lake (and river) produces its own personality.
Malawi’s Mbuna are like little bulldozers on espresso shots. Tanganyika’s residents tend to be more specialised, from shell dwellers to sand sifters. Peacocks? The elegant show ponies of the group. And Kribs — the polite guests who somehow make everyone else look like troublemakers.
Tank Size: Space Is Survival
Cichlids don’t do “cosy.” The more space you give them, the fewer fights you’ll have.
A crowded tank might look pretty at first, but it quickly turns into a turf war.
- Small species (Mbuna, Kribensis, Shell Dwellers): 100–150L minimum
- Medium species (Peacocks, Haps): 200–300L
- Large species (Frontosa, Tanganyika types): 350L+
African cichlids need horizontal swimming room and plenty of rockwork to claim territory.
Use rocks to break up line-of-sight — this reduces aggression dramatically. And remember, what looks “big” to you is still small to a fish that thinks it owns the place.
Water Quality & Chemistry
Here’s where African cichlids stand apart from their American relatives — they love hard, alkaline water.
They come from mineral-rich lakes, so trying to soften the water or chase a neutral pH will just stress them out.
- pH: 7.8–8.6
- Hardness: 10–20 dGH
- Temperature: 24–27°C
Use crushed coral, aragonite sand, or limestone in your substrate and filters to naturally buffer and maintain the right hardness.
Australian tap water is often perfect for them, especially in coastal regions — but always test before adding fish.
Weekly 20–30% water changes are essential to keep nitrate levels low and colours bright. The better your water, the more those blues, yellows, and oranges will glow.
Kribensis Exception: Kribs come from West African rivers and prefer slightly softer water with a pH of 6.5–7.5, but they adapt well to most tap water and make ideal tankmates for peaceful tropical communities.
Feeding Time: Nature on the Menu
African cichlids are split between herbivores, omnivores, and carnivores, depending on the species. Knowing who’s who is crucial — feeding the wrong diet can lead to bloating, digestive issues, or worse.
Recommended Natural Foods (Available in Australia)
- Spirulina flakes or pellets – perfect for Mbuna, Peacocks, and Kribs; keeps colour vibrant.
- Blanched vegetables – zucchini, spinach, kale, peas, and sweet potato.
- Brine shrimp & daphnia – safe protein for smaller species.
- Krill, mysis shrimp, and prawns – occasional treats for Haps and Frontosa.
- Earthworms or blackworms – protein boost for larger carnivores, offered sparingly.
- Algae wafers – excellent for herbivorous species that graze on rocks.
Species-Specific Feeding Tips
- Mbuna: strict herbivores. Too much protein = Malawi Bloat. Stick to greens and spirulina-based food.
- Peacocks (Aulonocara): omnivores. Alternate between spirulina and small meaty foods like brine shrimp or krill.
- Haps: predatory, so higher protein intake is fine, but keep portions small to prevent waste.
- Frontosa: slow eaters. Feed sinking pellets or prawns a few times a week; they don’t need daily feeding.
- Shell Dwellers: tiny mouths, so use crushed pellets, baby brine shrimp, and daphnia.
- Kribensis: omnivores that thrive on a balanced diet of quality pellets, brine shrimp, and blanched veggies. They’ll also graze on algae and love digging for micro-organisms in the substrate.
Feed once or twice daily — just enough for them to finish in under two minutes. Overfeeding ruins water quality faster than anything.
Tank Setup & Décor: Rock Solid Territory
If American cichlids are decorators, Africans are engineers. They’ll dig, shift, and rearrange everything to their liking.
To keep them (and your tank) safe:
- Use aragonite or crushed coral sand — it helps maintain pH and looks natural.
- Build rock piles and caves with sturdy stones or lava rock. Secure them before adding fish.
- Skip the delicate plants — most will be uprooted or shredded.
- If you want greenery, stick to Anubias or Java Fern attached to rocks.
- Kribensis-friendly tip: they love driftwood, smooth caves, and coconut shells — perfect for breeding and territorial comfort.
African cichlids love a tank that mimics their rocky lake beds. Think layers of caves, crevices, and hiding spots.
Just remember: once you’ve built it, they’ll still move it.
Tankmates: The Balancing Act
These fish are beautiful, but they’re also notoriously territorial.
Compatibility depends heavily on the lake and aggression levels.
Generally Compatible (by lake):
- Lake Malawi: Keep Mbuna with Mbuna; Peacocks with Peacocks or mild Haps. Don’t mix with Tanganyika species.
- Lake Tanganyika: Shell Dwellers, Julidochromis, and Frontosa can cohabit — with space and structure.
- Lake Victoria: Best kept in single-species tanks unless you’re an experienced keeper.
- Kribensis: one of the few cichlids safe in a community setup. They do well with tetras, Corydoras, and small barbs — just avoid overly aggressive or fin-nipping tankmates.
Avoid:
- Mixing African and American cichlids — completely different water chemistry.
- Docile tropical fish like guppies or fancy bettas (unless with Kribs).
- Goldfish — still no.
When in doubt, stick to species from the same lake or similar temperament.
It’s not just about looks — it’s about water chemistry, diet, and behaviour.
Breeding: The Mouthbrooding Marvels
Here’s where it gets fascinating.
Most African cichlids are mouthbrooders — females carry fertilised eggs and fry in their mouths until the babies are ready to swim.
It’s one of nature’s greatest parental acts and quite something to witness.
- Mbuna & Peacocks: classic mouthbrooders. Females hold for about three weeks before releasing fry.
- Tanganyika Shell Dwellers: lay eggs inside shells and guard them fiercely.
- Frontosa: slow to mature but loyal once paired, often forming long-term bonds.
- Kribensis: cave breeders. Females entice the males into a chosen cave, lay eggs, and both parents guard the fry. They’re attentive, protective, and endlessly entertaining to watch.
If you plan on breeding, provide extra hiding spots for fry. Adult cichlids are notorious for “snack attacks” on their own offspring.
Common Problems
- Malawi Bloat – caused by too much protein or poor diet; fatal if ignored.
- Aggression – normal, but can be minimised with space, structure, and correct ratios (more females per male).
- Poor Water Quality – dull colours, stress, and disease outbreaks follow.
- Ich (White Spot) – treat promptly and raise temperature slightly.
- Crossbreeding – avoid mixing similar species; hybrids may lose colour and weaken genetic lines.
- Kribensis fry predation – while Kribs are great parents, community fish often snack on the babies, so isolate the pair during breeding.
Stay on top of water quality and feeding habits, and most problems can be avoided entirely.
Maintenance Routine
Consistency is the secret to success:
- Daily: Observe behaviour, check temperature, and make sure everyone’s accounted for.
- Weekly: Change 20–30% of water, vacuum sand lightly, clean glass.
- Monthly: Rinse filters in tank water and test pH and hardness.
- Every few months: Re-stack rocks if needed — safely!
These fish thrive on stability. Fluctuations in pH or temperature are the quickest way to trigger stress and illness.
Final Thoughts: Wild Colour, Wilder Behaviour
African cichlids are bold, breathtaking, and endlessly entertaining — but they demand respect.
They’re not for casual fish keepers who forget water changes or want a peaceful Zen tank. They’re for people who appreciate raw behaviour, complex social structure, and living art in motion.
Get their setup right, and you’ll be rewarded with some of the most stunning displays nature has to offer — shimmering blues, fiery reds, and more drama than a soap opera in fins.
And if you’ve fallen for their attitude and beauty, don’t miss their distant relatives —
👉 American Cichlids: Colour, Chaos, and Character in Glass — your complete guide to their powerful, passionate cousins from across the world.
©Majella Gee 2025
Images
Main Image: Aquarium full of Lake Malawi Cichlids
Top to bottom: Blue Malawi (Melanochromis Johannii), Frontosa (Cyphotilapia frontosa), Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara nyassae), Shell Dweller (Neolamprologus), Kribensis (Pelvicachromis pulcher), Golden Mbuna (Melanochromis auratus), and an Electric Blue Hap (Sciaenochromis fryeri).
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